Are you ready to ride the wave of excitement with some awesome surfers books? Whether you’re a die-hard fan of the sport or simply looking to immerse yourself in tales of adventure and freedom, there’s something for everyone in our list of the 20 best books about surfers. From classic memoirs to gripping novels, these captivating stories will transport you to the sun-soaked beaches and roaring waves where surfers find solace. So grab your board and get ready for an unforgettable literary ride!
- 1 Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
- 2 Surf Is Where You Find It
- 3 Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art
- 4 In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
- 5 Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
- 6 The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
- 7 Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
- 8 The History of Surfing
- 9 Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
- 10 Surfing with Sartre: An Aquatic Inquiry into a Life of Meaning
- 11 The Finest Hours: The True Story of the U.S. Coast Guard’s Most Daring Sea Rescue
- 12 Surfing: 1778-Today
- 13 The Code: The Power of I Will
- 14 Surfing: The Manual: Advanced
- 15 The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories
- 16 Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Breaks and Techniques
- 17 Surfing: A Beginner’s Guide
- 18 Surfing: The Ultimate Guide
- 19 Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Spots and Techniques
- 20 Surfing: The World’s Most Exciting Rides
- 21 Conclusion
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
by William Finnegan
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a remarkable book that immerses readers into the thrilling and captivating world of wave riders. This epic memoir by Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist William Finnegan takes us on an unforgettable journey through his lifelong obsession with surfing.
Prepare to be spellbound as Finnegan recounts his wild adventures, from his early days as a young boy riding waves in Hawaii to his globe-trotting escapades in search of the perfect swell. This is not just a book about surfers; it is a deep exploration of the human spirit, resilience, and the pursuit of an unquenchable passion.
With vivid and poetic prose, Finnegan paints a vivid picture of the surfing subculture, capturing the camaraderie, rivalries, and sheer joy that comes with riding the ocean’s mighty waves. He delves into the psychology of surfers, their insatiable hunger for the next big wave, and the spiritual connection they share with the sea.
But Barbarian Days is not just for surfers; it’s a book that transcends boundaries and appeals to anyone seeking adventure, self-discovery, and a deeper understanding of the human condition. Finnegan’s storytelling is so immersive that you can almost taste the saltwater, feel the rush of adrenaline, and sense the indescribable freedom that comes with challenging the ocean’s power.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfer, an armchair adventurer, or simply someone yearning for a captivating tale, Barbarian Days is a must-read. Dive into this mesmerizing memoir and embark on a journey that will leave you breathless and longing for your own taste of the surfer’s life.
Surf Is Where You Find It
by Gerry Lopez
Surf Is Where You Find It is an epic tale that takes readers on a thrilling journey through the captivating world of wave riders. This remarkable book delves deep into the lives of those who are drawn to the ocean’s majestic waves, exploring their insatiable thirst for adventure, their unbreakable bonds with the sea, and their relentless pursuit of the perfect wave.
Within the pages of Surf Is Where You Find It, Gerry Lopez, an iconic figure in the surfing community, shares his awe-inspiring experiences and profound insights as a lifelong surfer. With eloquent prose and vivid imagery, Lopez paints a vivid portrait of the surfers’ world, capturing the raw energy, the untamed beauty, and the sheer exhilaration of riding the ocean’s mighty swells.
This captivating book about surfers is not just a collection of stories; it is a celebration of the indomitable spirit of those who choose to dance with the waves. Lopez’s authentic voice and genuine love for the sport shine through every page, making this book a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the magnetic pull of the ocean.
So, whether you are an ardent surfer seeking a deeper connection with the waves or simply someone captivated by the allure of the surfers’ world, Surf Is Where You Find It will transport you to a realm where the thrill of the ride and the serenity of the sea converge, leaving you with a profound appreciation for the artistry and bravery of those who dare to chase their dreams on the crest of a wave.
Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art
by James Nestor
Introducing Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art, a captivating journey into the hidden world of the human breath. Explore the incredible power of something we often take for granted, as author James Nestor delves deep into the science, history, and art of breathing.
In this groundbreaking book on surfers, Nestor uncovers the extraordinary secrets of an ancient and essential human function. Through his own personal experiences and encounters with leading scientists, free divers, and even monks, he reveals the untapped potential of our breath.
But don’t be fooled – this is not just another run-of-the-mill book about surfers. Nestor goes beyond the world of wave riders, exploring the profound impact that proper breathing techniques can have on our overall health and well-being. From reducing anxiety and improving sleep to increasing athletic performance and enhancing mental clarity, the benefits of breathwork are truly transformative.
Prepare to be amazed as Nestor uncovers the fascinating history of breathing practices across cultures and centuries. Discover how the simple act of breathing has been harnessed by yogis, athletes, and warriors throughout time, and how we can tap into this ancient wisdom to enhance our own lives.
So, whether you’re a dedicated surfer or simply curious about the hidden potential of your own breath, this is the surfers book you’ve been waiting for. Nestor’s captivating storytelling and scientific insights will leave you breathless, inspiring you to take a deep dive into the power of your own breath and unlock a new level of vitality and well-being.
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
by Allan Weisbecker
In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road by Allan Weisbecker is an electrifying adventure that takes readers on a wild journey through the world of wave riders. This captivating book about surfers immerses you in the adrenaline-fueled lifestyle of those who live for the thrill of riding the perfect wave.
Set against the backdrop of picturesque beaches and remote surf spots, In Search of Captain Zero delves deep into the heart of the surfing subculture. Weisbecker, an experienced surfer himself, combines his love for the sport with an insatiable thirst for adventure.
The story revolves around Weisbecker’s quest to find his long-lost friend, Christopher, who vanished without a trace in Central America. Determined to uncover the truth, Weisbecker embarks on an epic road trip that takes him through treacherous jungles, rugged mountains, and hidden surf spots. Along the way, he encounters a cast of eccentric characters, each with their own unique connection to the enigmatic Captain Zero.
What makes this book on surfers truly remarkable is its ability to transport readers to the heart of the surfing community. Weisbecker’s vivid descriptions of the ocean’s raw power, the camaraderie among surfers, and the pursuit of the perfect wave will leave you yearning for the sea.
In Search of Captain Zero is not just a book about surfers; it is a testament to the unbreakable bond between friends and the lengths we will go to unravel a mystery. Weisbecker’s storytelling prowess and his ability to infuse each page with humor, suspense, and heartfelt emotion make this book a must-read for anyone who craves adventure and seeks to understand the allure of the surfing lifestyle. So grab your board, dive into the pages of this surfers’ book, and get ready for a wild ride beyond the end of the road.
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
by Jaimal Yogis
Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea is not your typical book about surfers. It’s a captivating memoir that takes you on a spiritual journey through the eyes of Jaimal Yogis, a young man who finds solace and enlightenment in the waves.
As the title suggests, this book is not just about riding the waves, but about seeking a deeper meaning in life. Yogis shares his experiences growing up as a passionate surfer, and how he eventually embarks on a quest to find inner peace and balance.
What sets Saltwater Buddha apart is Yogis’ unique blend of adventure, philosophy, and self-discovery. He weaves together tales of epic surf sessions with profound insights gained from his encounters with Buddhist monks and yogis along the way.
Through his vivid storytelling, Yogis transports you to some of the world’s most breathtaking surf spots, from Hawaii to Indonesia. But what makes this book truly special is its ability to go beyond the surface and delve into the emotional and spiritual aspects of surfing.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or someone who has never stepped foot on a board, Saltwater Buddha offers a refreshing perspective on what it means to be a surfer. It reminds us that riding the waves can be a metaphor for riding the waves of life, teaching us important lessons about resilience, mindfulness, and finding our place in the world.
If you’re looking for a captivating book on surfers that goes beyond the adrenaline rush, Saltwater Buddha is a must-read. It’s a surfers book, yes, but it’s also a book about surfers seeking something greater than the thrill of the ride.
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
by Susan Casey
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean by Susan Casey is an exhilarating exploration of the world of big wave surfing. This gripping book takes readers on a heart-pounding journey alongside the fearless and daring individuals who dedicate their lives to riding massive waves, defying the limits of human capability.
Casey’s vivid storytelling immerses readers in the captivating world of these intrepid athletes, who are constantly pushing the boundaries of what is possible on a surfboard. Through her encounters with these surfers, she delves into their motivations, fears, and the spiritual connection they feel with the ocean.
With mesmerizing descriptions of towering waves and jaw-dropping accounts of surfers facing these monstrous beasts, The Wave is a must-read for anyone fascinated by the awe-inspiring power of the ocean and the indomitable spirit of those who ride its waves.
Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
by Daniel Duane
Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast by Daniel Duane is an exhilarating and immersive book about wave riders and their extraordinary world. Delving into the lives of these aquatic adventurers, Duane paints a vivid portrait of the surfing community along the sun-drenched shores of California. This captivating book explores the challenges, triumphs, and unbreakable bond that surfers share with the ocean. Duane’s prose brings the reader right into the heart of the action, making you feel the rush of catching that perfect wave. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or simply fascinated by the surf culture, this book is a must-read. Get ready to dive headfirst into the thrilling and awe-inspiring world of surfers with Caught Inside.
The History of Surfing
by Matt Warshaw
The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw is an enthralling journey into the world of wave riders. This captivating book delves deep into the fascinating tales of those who have dedicated their lives to mastering the art of riding the waves. It is not just a book about surfers, but rather a captivating account of the individuals who have become one with the ocean, riding its majestic swells with sheer skill and unyielding passion.
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
by Peter Heller
“Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave” by Peter Heller is not just your average book about surfers. It’s a thrilling ride that takes you deep into the world of surfing, where the waves become a metaphor for life itself.
With his captivating storytelling, Heller immerses you in the vibrant and adrenaline-fueled world of surfers, those daring individuals who chase the perfect wave with an unwavering passion. But this book goes beyond the surface of the sport; it delves into the deeper lessons that surfing can teach us about love, life, and the pursuit of happiness.
Through the eyes of the author, we meet an eclectic cast of characters, each with their own unique story and relationship with the ocean. From the seasoned pros to the beginners, from the fearless to the hesitant, the book explores the different ways people connect with the waves and how it shapes their lives.
As you follow along this exhilarating journey, you’ll discover that “Kook” is not just a book about surfers; it’s a book about the human spirit and our endless quest for meaning and fulfillment. It’s about finding our place in the world and embracing the challenges that come our way, just like surfers do in the face of massive waves.
So, if you’re ready to dive headfirst into a world of adventure, adrenaline, and self-discovery, “Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave” is the perfect book for you. It will leave you inspired and craving your own taste of the ocean’s magic.
Surfing with Sartre: An Aquatic Inquiry into a Life of Meaning
by Aaron James
Surfing with Sartre: An Aquatic Inquiry into a Life of Meaning by Aaron James is not your typical book about surfers. It dives deep into the philosophical realm, exploring the profound connection between riding waves and finding meaning in life.
This captivating book on surfers takes readers on a thought-provoking journey, blending the exhilarating world of surfing with the wisdom of renowned philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre. Aaron James effortlessly weaves together his love for the ocean and his passion for philosophy, creating an engaging narrative that will captivate surfers and non-surfers alike.
In this surfers book, James explores the concept of “flow,” that magical state of being where surfers are completely immersed in the present moment while riding a wave. He argues that this state of flow can provide a profound sense of meaning and fulfillment in life, similar to what Sartre called “authenticity.”
Through interviews with surfers from all walks of life, James delves into their personal experiences and uncovers the transformative power of surfing. He explores the unique connection surfers have with the ocean, the challenges they face, and the lessons they learn from riding waves.
By combining personal anecdotes, philosophical insights, and scientific research, Surfing with Sartre offers a fresh perspective on the age-old question of finding meaning in life. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or simply curious about the surfing world, this book will leave you with a newfound appreciation for the profound impact that the ocean and the act of surfing can have on our lives.
The Finest Hours: The True Story of the U.S. Coast Guard’s Most Daring Sea Rescue
by Michael J. Tougias and Casey Sherman
The Finest Hours: The True Story of the U.S. Coast Guard’s Most Daring Sea Rescue by Michael J. Tougias and Casey Sherman is an exhilarating book about a group of courageous individuals who risked everything to save lives amidst treacherous waters.
Set in the winter of 1952, off the coast of Cape Cod, this gripping tale follows the harrowing rescue mission of the Pendleton, a T2 oil tanker that split in half during a violent nor’easter storm. As the ship rapidly sinks, the crew members find themselves fighting for survival in frigid waters, their only hope resting on the shoulders of the brave men of the U.S. Coast Guard.
Tougias and Sherman masterfully weave together the accounts of the valiant Coast Guard crew with those of the stranded sailors, creating a heart-stopping narrative that keeps readers on the edge of their seats. The authors vividly depict the immense power of the storm and the overwhelming odds faced by both the rescuers and the rescued.
With its fast-paced storytelling and vivid descriptions, The Finest Hours is a thrilling tribute to the bravery and determination of the men who battled the elements to save others. It is a testament to the resilience of the human spirit and the unwavering dedication of those who serve in the U.S. Coast Guard. This book is a must-read for anyone seeking a gripping true story of survival and heroism on the high seas.
by Jim Heimann
Surfing: 1778-Today is not just another book about surfers; it is a captivating journey through the history of riding waves. Written by the renowned author Jim Heimann, this surfers book takes you on an exhilarating ride through time, exploring the evolution of this ancient practice from its Polynesian roots to the global phenomenon it is today.
The Code: The Power of I Will
by Shaun Tomson
The Code: The Power of I Will is an exhilarating book about wave riders, a book on surfers who have harnessed the power of determination and resilience. Written by Shaun Tomson, a legendary surfer himself, this book delves into the mindset and philosophy of those who brave the waves.
Surfing: The Manual: Advanced
by Jim Kempton
Welcome to the world of surfing, where the waves are our playground and the surfers are our heroes. If you’re looking for the ultimate guide to take your surfing skills to the next level, look no further than Surfing: The Manual: Advanced by Jim Kempton.
This book is not just another run-of-the-mill guide, it’s a love letter to the art of surfing and the incredible individuals who dedicate their lives to riding the waves. With Kempton’s expertise and passion, he takes you on a thrilling journey through the world of advanced surfing, revealing the secrets and techniques that will elevate your skills to new heights.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfer looking to push your limits or a beginner eager to dive into the world of advanced maneuvers, this is the book on surfers that will equip you with the knowledge and confidence to take on any wave. Kempton’s writing style is captivating, making you feel like you’re right there in the barrel, riding the wave alongside the surfers he so eloquently describes.
From carving up the face of a massive wave to executing mind-blowing aerial maneuvers, Surfing: The Manual: Advanced covers it all. Kempton breaks down every aspect of advanced surfing, from equipment selection and wave analysis to mastering complex maneuvers and understanding the intricacies of competition surfing.
But this isn’t just a book about surfers, it’s a celebration of the surfing lifestyle. Kempton delves into the rich history and culture of surfing, introducing you to legendary surfers who have left an indelible mark on the sport. He explores the spiritual connection between surfers and the ocean, reminding us of the profound beauty and power that lies within every wave.
So, whether you’re a seasoned wave-rider or a landlocked dreamer yearning to join the ranks of the surfers, Surfing: The Manual: Advanced is the ultimate guidebook that will ignite your passion and inspire you to chase the perfect wave. Dive into the world of advanced surfing, and let Jim Kempton be your guide as you embark on an unforgettable journey through the waves.
The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories
by John Long
The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories by John Long is an exhilarating book that plunges readers into the heart-pounding world of wave warriors. This gripping collection of tales is a must-read for anyone fascinated by the daring exploits of those who ride the ocean’s giants.
Dive into the pages of this electrifying book on surfers and you’ll find yourself immersed in a sea of adrenaline and awe. Long, an expert storyteller, captures the essence of the surfer’s spirit with his vivid descriptions and engaging narratives. Each story is a testament to the courage and determination of these modern-day adventurers, pushing the boundaries of what is considered possible in the world of surfing.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or simply captivated by the mystique of the ocean, this book about surfers will transport you to the heart of the action. As you read about the epic battles fought against towering waves, you’ll feel the salt spray on your face and the rush of adrenaline through your veins. Each turn of the page brings a new adventure, a new triumph against the immense power of the sea.
The Big Drop is not just a surfers book; it’s a celebration of the human spirit and the unwavering pursuit of passion. It’s a reminder that in the face of fear and uncertainty, there are those who are willing to take the plunge and embrace the unknown. Long’s storytelling prowess ensures that these stories will stay with you long after you’ve closed the final chapter, inspiring you to chase your own dreams with the same unwavering determination as these wave warriors.
If you’re ready to embark on an unforgettable journey into the world of big wave surfing, then grab a copy of The Big Drop and prepare to be swept away by the incredible stories of these fearless surfers. Get ready to ride the waves of emotion, from heart-stopping thrills to soul-stirring triumphs, as you discover the true meaning of chasing your dreams. This book is a must-read for anyone seeking inspiration, adventure, and a deeper understanding of the indomitable spirit of surfers.
Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Breaks and Techniques
by Paul Mason
Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Breaks and Techniques by Paul Mason is an exhilarating book about the fascinating world of wave riders. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or just starting to catch that first wave, this book is the ultimate guide to the most epic surf breaks around the globe. Dive into the exhilarating stories of surfers as they conquer monstrous waves, sharing their experiences and techniques that will inspire and empower you to ride like a pro. With stunning photography capturing the beauty and power of the ocean, this book is a paradise for any lover of the sea. So grab your board, get ready to paddle out, and embark on an unforgettable journey with this incredible surfers book!
Surfing: A Beginner’s Guide
by Alf Alderson
Surfing: A Beginner’s Guide by Alf Alderson is the ultimate ride for anyone looking to dive into the world of wave riding. This book is not just another run-of-the-mill guide; it’s a treasure trove of knowledge and inspiration that will have you hanging ten like a pro in no time.
Let’s be honest, surfing is not just a sport; it’s a way of life. And Alderson understands this better than anyone. With years of experience as a seasoned wave warrior himself, he has captured the essence of the surfing community in this captivating book about wave sliders, or as some might say, a “surfers book.”
From the very first page, you’ll find yourself immersed in a world of stoke, where the waves are your playground and the ocean is your second home. Alderson’s writing style is like riding a perfect wave; it’s smooth, effortless, and leaves you hungry for more. He takes you on a journey through the history of surfing, introducing you to the legends who paved the way for today’s wave warriors.
But this book is not just a tribute to the past; it’s also a practical guide for beginners who are itching to paddle out and catch their first wave. Alderson covers everything a budding surfer needs to know, from choosing the right board to mastering the art of paddling and popping up. His tips and tricks are like insider secrets that will have you progressing faster than you ever thought possible.
Surfing: A Beginner’s Guide is more than just a book on surfers; it’s a gateway to a whole new world of adventure and self-discovery. Whether you’re a landlocked dreamer or a beach bum ready to take the plunge, this book will be your trusted companion on your journey to becoming a true wave warrior. So grab your board, wax it up, and get ready to embark on the ride of a lifetime.
Surfing: The Ultimate Guide
by Owen Pye
Surfing: The Ultimate Guide by Owen Pye is not just your average book about surfers – it’s a thrilling journey into the world of wave riders. This captivating surfers book dives deep into the exhilarating sport of surfing, providing readers with a wealth of knowledge and insights into the fascinating lives of those who ride the waves.
Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Spots and Techniques
by Chris Nelson
Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Spots and Techniques
Get ready to ride the gnarliest waves and dive into the exhilarating world of surfing with Chris Nelson’s book on surfers, “Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Spots and Techniques.” This captivating and informative guide is a must-read for anyone who wants to immerse themselves in the thrilling lifestyle of surfers.
From the sandy shores of California to the tropical paradises of Hawaii, this book about surfers takes you on a global adventure, exploring the most breathtaking surf spots around the world. Whether you’re a seasoned wave rider or a curious beginner, Nelson provides valuable insights and insider knowledge on each location, allowing you to plan your own epic surf trips.
But “Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Spots and Techniques” is not just about the places. Nelson delves into the heart of the surfing community, capturing the spirit and passion shared by surfers worldwide. Through captivating stories and interviews with surf legends, he brings to life the camaraderie, dedication, and fearless nature that define these ocean enthusiasts.
Aside from showcasing the world’s best surf spots, this surfers book also offers valuable advice and techniques for honing your surfing skills. Nelson breaks down the fundamentals, from paddling and popping up to carving and tube riding. With step-by-step instructions and detailed illustrations, he guides you through each move, helping you become a better surfer with every page.
Whether you’re dreaming of catching your first wave or seeking inspiration to elevate your surfing to the next level, “Surfing: The World’s Best Surf Spots and Techniques” is the ultimate guide to fuel your passion. So grab your board, get ready to hang ten, and dive into this exhilarating world of surfers!
Surfing: The World’s Most Exciting Rides
by Ben Marcus
Surfing: The World’s Most Exciting Rides by Ben Marcus is an epic adventure that dives headfirst into the exhilarating world of wave riding. This book is not just another run-of-the-mill book about surfers; it is a captivating journey that will have you hanging ten in your imagination.
Step into the pages of this thrilling surfers book and get ready to ride the waves alongside some of the most fearless and awe-inspiring wave warriors. Marcus takes you on a wild ride as he explores the lives and experiences of these ocean enthusiasts who live and breathe for the rush of the surf.
This book on surfers is not just a collection of stories, but a celebration of the untamed spirit that drives these water warriors. Marcus masterfully captures the essence of the surfing world, from the adrenaline-pumping wipeouts to the moments of pure bliss as they conquer the perfect wave.
Surfing: The World’s Most Exciting Rides is a wave of inspiration that will leave you yearning for the salty air and the crash of the surf against your board. Dive into this surfers book and let the stories of these wave chasers wash over you, transporting you to the heart of the ocean’s playground.
So, grab your board, wax it up, and get ready for an unforgettable ride with Surfing: The World’s Most Exciting Rides. This book is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the lure of the waves and wants to experience the thrill of the surf from the comfort of their own imagination.
Surfing is not just a sport, but a way of life. If you are a fan of the waves and the surf culture, then these 20 best books about surfers are a must-read for you. Dive into the world of daring adventures, incredible stories, and the eternal quest for the perfect wave. From memoirs of legendary surfers to fictional tales set in the world of surf, these books will transport you to the ocean and leave you yearning for more. So grab your board, curl up with one of these books, and let the waves carry you away.